Yes a winding path. And, you can put special trees, maybe those with fall color, or some other especially attractive feature at points where there is a long view of them. I have a couple of "S" shaped paths into the back portion of my land here. At the entrance of one, I have a group of three Norway spruce on each side of the entrance. You might want to make the path very wide for vehicle access. You can vary the "enclosure" effects at different points.
Kentucky coffeetrees--one of my special favorites.
Groups of trees: in a forest, pairs, and groups, of white pines growing very close together can be stunning. In one of my pine groves at my timberland, there are several pairs of white pines growing just 4 or 5 feet apart. Looking up between them is one of my favorite things. They are about 100 feet tall, but looking up between them one would think they go all the way to heaven. Perhaps my favorite spot is where there are four growing very close together. Three are within 4 to 6 feet of each other, with the fourth about 10 feet away. Of course, when growing this close, they need extra room on the outsides of the groups. I have a couple of pairs or groups of Hemlocks like these also. I can't walk near these without going to have my look up to heaven.
Trees in a forest can grow quite close together, and develop very ,very nicely with excellent form. The most common examples on my timberland are groups of three to 5 red oak trees or Black cherry trees that had their origin as stump sprouts after the forest was cut in 1933. These are some of the true "stars" in my forest land--absolute stunners. One is a pair of absolutely perfect black cherry, growing straight as an arrow, straight up to over 100 feet, with perfect trunk form. As veneer trees, each could bring 3 to 5 thousand dollars, but I am not having them cut any time soon.
Now I am not strongly recommending planting trees as close as these--the bases are joined--because trees of seedling origin will have different genetic characteristics. Trees of a stump sprout origin are clones, and so grow at well matched rates and forms. But you could experiment with planting several trees very close to each other, and see how they develop. If they are not well-matched, thin them out, leaving one or maybe two, depending. But, of course, leave extra room on either side.
When I plant in the open, I like to plant trees as separate individuals, but also in close groups of three, If I plant oaks this way, I space them 12 to 15 feet apart. Ditto with pines, or maybe a tad closer.
I also don't try to have every type of tree--I prefer to plant multiples of my favorites, and those that grow best in the soils I have. Variety is nice, but I go more for beauty. I don't want a tree of a special variety if it will not develop into an especially beautiful tree. In this, my land is unlike an arboretum.
Are you planting strictly natives? I plant anything, regardless, if it is beautiful and adapted for my area. A really beautiful favorite of mine is golden weeping willow, but it needs to grow in the open. I love larches, especially the hybrid Marschlinsii, AKA the Dunkeld larch, and formerly called Larix X eurolepis. wonderful narrow conical growth, nice autumn color, and early spring green.
And, of course, Norway spruce, one of my favorites of all trees. And, fir trees are wonderful--you can grow the balsam fir, but I think some of the exotics are better. Maybe for your area, Nordmann fir would be a good choice. But fir trees are very, very slow starters, so they can't compete with other trees until after they get 4 or 5 feet tall. After that their growth can be moderate. If you are interested, I have lots of other non-native suggestions.
And, you can grow baldcypress, which I think is one of the top ten, or maybe the top three or four, ornamental trees available.
And, of the natives, you can't have too many eastern white oaks, which I would argue is the finest hardwood tree that one can grow in our general area. I love the opening statement of the description in the American Forests Association publication, Knowing Your trees. It starts, "Chief of all the oaks, and outstanding among trees, is the eastern white oak." Among other virtues, which are many, it has the finest growth form of any tree I know, adapting to both forest conditions, where it can grow very narrow and tall, and to open areas, where it spreads wide, with perfect balance.
Trees from seed? Would you consider getting seedlings? That can save time and trouble. Mail-order nurseries sell these for very low prices. Piles Peak Nursery, in Michigan, by the way, in their "seedling store," sells them in bundles of ten, so you don't have to get 50 or more as with wholesale. They have a nice selection of species in good sizes. But they do sell out early. Musser sells seedlings in bundles of 5, but they are smaller, and need special care. Oaks from acorns are very, very easy, as are some other trees. But some are tricky to grow from seed.
Voles? They eat the roots off my little trees, going underground a bit to get to them. I have lost dozens of oaks to voles, including some expensive exotics and hybrids. If you sink the bases of the tree tubes two or three inches into the ground, that may work. I have problems with rabbits and groundhogs also, and use three kinds of fencing. If you need ideas for fencing, or other protection strategies, let me know.